May 2023 Recap

Where I Ate and Drank in May

• Papilles. Kind of a coffee shop/brunch/all day type of restaurant. It is really really good, and also really really popular on the weekends. I actually just made a reservation for us this weekend because I never think about it in time and then they’re always full. I had their version of a Bánh mì.
• Deli By Melt. Melt is for sure the best BBQ in Paris. They recently opened a sandwich shop and Romain and I couldn’t wait to try it. We shared a Brisket Bun, Turkey BLT and the pimento cheese, coleslaw and potato salad. Melt is expensive, but the quality is always there. We absolutely adored everything we ordered and have already been back.
• Le Voltaire. For the new members this month, Le Voltaire will always be on this list. It’s our favorite place for drinks on the weekend and a meal at least once a month. It never disappoints.
• Les Antiquaires. Another always on the list spot. I usually just have coffee here in the morning and sometimes breakfast (the tartines with butter and strawberry jelly are my weakness), but the food is also very good for a café. If you want to come for lunch or dinner be sure to make a reservation – sometimes the line for a table wraps around the corner!
• La Rotonde de la Muette. A popular neighborhood restaurant in the 16th. I wouldn’t go out of my way to eat there, but if you’re going to Musée Marmottan Monet it’s a good option close by. I had the shrimp dumplings and a vegetable risotto with asparagus.
• Le Petit Vendôme. We really leaned into the cooler May temperatures and were still having onion soup and Aligot (cheesy garlicky mashed potatoes – if you see them on a menu order them). If you want to have a sandwich you have to either get it to-go or sit at the bar (we always sit at the bar).
• Café de l’Homme. The same view as Girafe (one of the most difficult reservations to get in Paris) without the hassle. We had the best table and it was perfect. I started with the crispy langoustines with avocado and then had the slow cooked beef and mashed potatoes. Going for dinner and watching the Eiffel Tower sparkle is truly magical, no matter how many times you’ve been to Paris.
• Le Hibou. I met my friends Latrice and Emily for lunch (both are trying to get me to switch to Substack…let me know if you would prefer this over WordPress). I was in the mood for a burger, and that’s what Latrice and I both got. It came with bacon and kind of a béarnaise/mayo ish sauce that was delicious. I had mine with mashed potatoes because given the option, I would take mashed potatoes over fries every time. It was like a $30 burger, but Le Hibou is also one of those restaurants where everything is $30.
• Il Gelato del Marchese. After lunch we went for ice cream. Il Gelato del Marchese is one of my favorite spots in Paris – everything is made on site and they use the minimum amount of sugar necessary.
• Le Cristal. Le Cristal will always hold a special place in my heart, as it’s where Romain and I met. When we met it was just a bar known for having some of the cheapest beers in Paris. Since then, they’ve started making smash burgers that are legitimately among the best I’ve ever tried anywhere, and are for sure the best in Paris.
• La Crêperie de Josselin. Hands down the best crêpes and galettes in Paris. It’s a little more out of the way than Breizh Café, which has locations in excellent places, but the difference is night and day. I always get the Bertine which is ham, egg, cheese and cider onions.
• Coutume. One of the “original” great coffee and breakfast/brunch places in Paris. It’s still forever my favorite Paris cappuccino.

• Piero TT. I got so many questions about this place on Instagram but gatekept it for you all. Most people were probably interested in the Ginori dishes, but the food is insane. It’s Italian and I love the cozy ambiance (request a table downstairs). The menu changes often but I’ve yet to try something that I didn’t love.
• I don’t really understand Ernest, it’s literally just a rebranded Eric Kayser boulangerie, but whatever. I’ve never seen the Cookie Dough cookie anywhere but here and it’s legitimately one of the best cookies I’ve ever tried.
• Des Gâteaux et Du Pain. A fancy boulangerie and pastry shop on Rue du Bac. The pastries are beautiful – we tried a fraisier and it was fine, not great. The ice cream however was very good.
• Hôtel Costes. It’s an institution. The service is notoriously terrible, and that’s the way they like it. They legitimately don’t care. If you go in knowing and expecting this, you’ll have a nice time. The setting is beyond beautiful, no matter where you sit. I had the 41€ club sandwich and have been craving it ever since. It comes with the thinnest frites and the proportions of the sandwich are perfection.
• Ritz Paris Le Comptoir – by now I’m sure you all know that I’m crazy about the madeleines at Le Comptoir – but only the glazed ones, never the dipped (like chocolate for example – they’re dry). There are some seasonal summer flavors, one of which is raspberry rose, that are divine. We’re going to the US this Friday and should be in the car at 7:30 am on the way to the airport. Le Comptoir opens at 8:00 am…I might risk a little airport stress to bring home a box of fresh madeleines. To be determined…
• Aux Prés – Believe it or not, the last time we went to Aux Prés was right after the wedding with my parents. It’s one of my family’s favorite spots in Paris (and mine too), so when my brother came to visit it was a non-negotiable stop. I always prefer sitting at the bar, and note it in my reservation request (good for up to four people, more than that and it’s not practical). We always order a bunch of different things and share, although every time I think about ordering a cheeseburger just for me. We shared the crispy spicy prawns, crispy salmon sushi, miso caramelized eggplant, yellowtail with jalapeño oil, the cheeseburger, and a side of mashed potatoes and salad.
• Le Bar – Le Bar used to be Dragon, but now Cyril Lignac has a restaurant named Dragon. It’s one of my very favorite bars in Paris, and we stopped in for a drink both before and after dinner at Aux Prés.

Where I Shopped in May

• Vanves Flea Market. One of my favorite weekend activities. I showed restraint and didn’t buy the “LB” monogramed napkins (because I already have 12…).
• A random fruit shop…where we bought a raspberry/strawberry hybrid. I thought they were super weird and would much rather have either a strawberry or a raspberry, but Romain liked them.

What I Did in May

• Celebrated May 1st. This is La Fête du Travail (Labor Day), and if you’re visiting Paris expect most places (museums, restaurants, and shops – major department stores included) to be closed. Like almost the same level as Christmas or New Years Day closed. I’m not going to knock the French work ethic here, but you better believe they are going to enjoy Labor Day. There are also usually demonstrations, but usually peaceful. It’s also La Fête du Muguet, where Lily of the Valley is traditionally given as a symbol of good luck.
• Went to the préfecture. Three times. I’m not going to get into it because it’s a saga, but one would think that marrying a French person would make things less complicated. So far not the case for me. I still don’t have my titre de séjour, and instead I have a récépissé, which is a very impractically sized piece of paper that I can use to travel in the meantime. The lady went ahead and gave me the récépissé for six months instead of the usual three, because three months is never enough time for the titre de séjour to actually be ready and to get the appointment to pick it up.
• We went back to Normandy. The weather was pretty for like half of a day, and then was pretty bad. Which is just how it goes in Normandy. We still had a great time. I’ve linked our weekend itinerary as we do the same thing pretty much every time we go.
• Got our hopes up about another perfect apartment that we did not get. Our search area is so small and there is a huge demand. We’re keeping our fingers crossed that we find something bigger soon.
• Cruised on Le Bateau Français. What an absolute blast and such a fun experience. It’s an investment, but there’s truly no better way to see Paris and the service was excellent. Highly recommend.

A big merci for being a member! If there’s ever anything you’d like to see more of, don’t hesitate to let me know!