I started a draft of this December 2022 Recap post on January 5th. We were off to go skiing later that day, and I thought I’d finish the post on the train there. Spoiler alert – it’s now January 30th and the post is finally being published. December is an excellent month to visit France so hopefully this recap can serve as a reference point for future travel during the festive period!
Where I Ate and Drank in December

- Les Antiquaires. I logged a lot of hours warming up at Les Antiquaires in December, including on Christmas morning. It’s one of the few places open in Paris on Christmas Day, which is worth noting (and reserving in advance).
- Nina’s Paris. The story of Nina’s dates back to 1672. Teas were supplied to the Royal Court in Versailles and were particularly enjoyed by Marie-Antoinette. Today they still use rose petals and apples from the gardens in Versailles. They have a sweet little tea room just off of Place Vendôme where you can have a tea and their delicious cake. We included some of the Marie-Antoinette tea and mini jars of the jelly in our wedding welcome bags.
- Le Voltaire. It’s always going to be on the list. Two of my favorite visits in December were for dinner on December 23rd (which I hope will become a new tradition for us) and for a drink on New Year’s Eve.
- Le Central. I met some girlfriends for a holiday happy hour. I often recommend this spot to clients because it’s on the charming Rue Cler, close to the Eiffel Tower, and it’s one of those places where the menu has something for everyone.
- J.K. Place. Such a cozy spot for a drink. I love this hotel – the service is next level.
- Le Grand Bol. I read about this spot in a Weekend Links article and made a reservation for the next day. Romain and I both agreed that it’s the best Chinese food we’ve had in Paris.
- Jacques Genin in the Marais. I really wanted to have a hot chocolate and a pastry but apparently they don’t do that anymore, so I just settled for a pastry. If you love chocolate and caramel add this spot to your list.
- Le Meurice for holiday tea. I’m not going to sugar coat this one. I love Le Meurice as a hotel and their sales team is a delight to work with. The Christmas tea experience was a swing and a miss. So many things went wrong. Calling it a special Christmas tea was a stretch. We booked it because it’s one of the only places in Paris that offers sweet and savory options versus just sweet.

- Le Chalet du Plaza Athénée. This pop up with an ice skating and fondue experience was my favorite festive thing I did this year. It’s expensive but well worth it. It felt like Christmas and it was truly a full sensory experience.
- Le Petit Vendôme. Romain and I love this spot. It’s one of our favorite Saturday lunch spots and we always sit at the bar so that I can have a sandwich.
- Ritz Paris Le Comptoir. After lunch at Le Petit Vendôme we like to get a little treat at Le Comptoir. I tried the holiday Madeleines – the one dipped in chocolate was dry but I liked the other that was glazed.
- Monsieur Dior. The restaurant in the Dior flagship store is gorgeous and the details make the experience. I would say it’s more of a girly spot, but we went on a double date with another couple and the boys enjoyed themselves too. Everything on the menu has a story, so if you go be sure to have the waiter explain it!
- Le Valentin. One of my favorite spots for a quick lunch in Galerie Vivienne. It’s a sweet little tea room – I usually get the soup or quiche of the day.
- Café Varenne. A favorite neighborhood café. They’re so sweet to me (and to Boomer) and the food is always good.
Where I Shopped in December

- The Ritz. Stopping in to see the Christmas tree an absolute must, but The Ritz is also a great place to knock out some holiday shopping. They have a tea and coffee shop stocked with unique gift ideas.
- Caves Legrand. One of my favorite foodie shops and also a great place to buy wines. A great place to come and souvenir shop and they have lots of seasonal items too with gorgeous packaging.
- Astier de Villatte. I really did not hold back on my Christmas ornament purchases this year.
- Les Puces de Saint-Ouen. I took a group to visit the Paris flea market. It was absolutely freezing, and a Monday, but they were such troopers. I’m still regretting not purchasing a Baccarat moutardier.
- La Maison du Bac. This shop has the perfect mix of old and new items. My goal was to buy all of my Christmas gifts in local shops, which I accomplished.
- Hermès on Rue de Sèvres. This Hermès is built inside the former pool of the Hotel Lutetia. It’s a light and bright boutique and I find it more laid back than some of the other Hermès stores.
- Compagnie Française des Poivres et des Épices. I love this little boutique. The jars of spices and mixes make great gifts. Some of my favorites are the salad mix, roast chicken mix, and aglio olio peperoncino. I recommend going in and smelling the different mixes to see what you like, but you can also order online and they ship worldwide.

- Caviar Kaspia. We walked by and were victims to trying the free samples. We got a jar of truffle tarama that we served as a part of our appetizer on Christmas Eve. We asked about the caviar tarama, since it is a caviar restaurant after all, but they said that it was too salty. It’s always nice when people give their honest opinions.
- Flair in the City. A word to the wise…don’t get sucked in. I just had to get Boomer a bottle of dog Champagne and can of dog beer (both just apple juice). Both were 30€ and Boomer didn’t like either. Next time I’ll take myself to Bar Hemingway for a drink and Boomer can stick with his tap water.
- Ryst Dupeyron. A go-to spot to pick up a bottle of wine or Champagne to give as a gift (they will wrap anything) as well as Christmas gifts for guys. You can pick a bottle of Armagnac with a year on it (special for a birthday, anniversary, etc.) and they’ll put the person’s name on it.
- Petrossian. After going back and forth on New Year’s Eve plans we decided expensive set menus at restaurants were overrated and instead decided to have a fun and delicious dinner with friends at their apartment. Romain and I brought caviar and introduced our friends to the American way of eating caviar on potato chips with a little bit of crème fraîche.
What I Did in December

- Went to the Loire Valley to see the châteaux decked out for Christmas. I will do a full recap post and link it here when it’s live!
- Led lots of private Paris Christmas Walks. This is one of my favorite December activities because each walk is different and it’s the best way to get into the holiday spirit.
- Mailed Christmas cards. And I learned that 1). it’s not at all French (they send New Year’s cards), 3). French people also don’t send cards with photos on them and 3). when La Poste says it takes 4-6 days for the cards to arrive in the US count closer to three weeks.
- Visited Musée Rodin. I usually only go in the spring and summer months to catch the garden in full bloom. I was very pleasantly surprised to find out that they also put up a stunning Christmas tree.
- Watched the World Cup. It’s the only time I watch soccer/football and (luckily) Romain isn’t very into the sport. But we did have a lot of fun watching.
- Went to a Swan Lake matinée at the Opéra Bastille. The ballet was absolutely lovely. The Opéra Bastille…not so much. There’s just something about Palais Garnier…

- So I had to visit Palais Garnier. The Christmas tree wasn’t red flocked this year, but it was still stunning. It truly is the most magnificent building in Paris.
- Went to Le Grand Numéro de Chanel. I’m still not sure what the point of this whole exhibit was. I suppose to showcase the different perfumes. It was wild and fun to watch and I of course left with Chanel tarot cards…don’t ask me why.
- Undecorated, re-lit and re-decorated my Christmas tree on December 23rd. Boomer ate eight out of ten light strands and I couldn’t deal with having a tree look that sad on Christmas Eve (we hosted). So I took everything off the tree and started over. Thank you, Boomer.
- I’m not going to lie, it felt pretty weird being “old” enough to host Christmas Eve dinner, but we did and we had the best time. Romain and I started the evening going to the family Christmas Eve service in the church where we got married. I love the chaos of a family Christmas Eve service when kids are involved and especially love the songs. It was the perfect start to our night. Our dinner was a mix of French and American Christmas Eve favorites.
A big merci for being a member! If there’s ever anything you’d like to see more of, don’t hesitate to let me know!
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Where I Ate and Drank in December

- Les Antiquaires. I logged a lot of hours warming up at Les Antiquaires in December, including on Christmas morning. It’s one of the few places open in Paris on Christmas Day, which is worth noting (and reserving in advance).
- Nina’s Paris. The story of Nina’s dates back to 1672. Teas were supplied to the Royal Court in Versailles and were particularly enjoyed by Marie-Antoinette. Today they still use rose petals and apples from the gardens in Versailles. They have a sweet little tea room just off of Place Vendôme where you can have a tea and their delicious cake. We included some of the Marie-Antoinette tea and mini jars of the jelly in our wedding welcome bags.
- Le Voltaire. It’s always going to be on the list. Two of my favorite visits in December were for dinner on December 23rd (which I hope will become a new tradition for us) and for a drink on New Year’s Eve.
- Le Central. I met some girlfriends for a holiday happy hour. I often recommend this spot to clients because it’s on the charming Rue Cler, close to the Eiffel Tower, and it’s one of those places where the menu has something for everyone.
- J.K. Place. Such a cozy spot for a drink. I love this hotel – the service is next level.
- Le Grand Bol. I read about this spot in a Weekend Links article and made a reservation for the next day. Romain and I both agreed that it’s the best Chinese food we’ve had in Paris.
- Jacques Genin in the Marais. I really wanted to have a hot chocolate and a pastry but apparently they don’t do that anymore, so I just settled for a pastry. If you love chocolate and caramel add this spot to your list.
- Le Meurice for holiday tea. I’m not going to sugar coat this one. I love Le Meurice as a hotel and their sales team is a delight to work with. The Christmas tea experience was a swing and a miss. So many things went wrong. Calling it a special Christmas tea was a stretch. We booked it because it’s one of the only places in Paris that offers sweet and savory options versus just sweet.

- Le Chalet du Plaza Athénée. This pop up with an ice skating and fondue experience was my favorite festive thing I did this year. It’s expensive but well worth it. It felt like Christmas and it was truly a full sensory experience.
- Le Petit Vendôme. Romain and I love this spot. It’s one of our favorite Saturday lunch spots and we always sit at the bar so that I can have a sandwich.
- Ritz Paris Le Comptoir. After lunch at Le Petit Vendôme we like to get a little treat at Le Comptoir. I tried the holiday Madeleines – the one dipped in chocolate was dry but I liked the other that was glazed.
- Monsieur Dior. The restaurant in the Dior flagship store is gorgeous and the details make the experience. I would say it’s more of a girly spot, but we went on a double date with another couple and the boys enjoyed themselves too. Everything on the menu has a story, so if you go be sure to have the waiter explain it!
- Le Valentin. One of my favorite spots for a quick lunch in Galerie Vivienne. It’s a sweet little tea room – I usually get the soup or quiche of the day.
- Café Varenne. A favorite neighborhood café. They’re so sweet to me (and to Boomer) and the food is always good.
Where I Shopped in December

- The Ritz. Stopping in to see the Christmas tree an absolute must, but The Ritz is also a great place to knock out some holiday shopping. They have a tea and coffee shop stocked with unique gift ideas.
- Caves Legrand. One of my favorite foodie shops and also a great place to buy wines. A great place to come and souvenir shop and they have lots of seasonal items too with gorgeous packaging.
- Astier de Villatte. I really did not hold back on my Christmas ornament purchases this year.
- Les Puces de Saint-Ouen. I took a group to visit the Paris flea market. It was absolutely freezing, and a Monday, but they were such troopers. I’m still regretting not purchasing a Baccarat moutardier.
- La Maison du Bac. This shop has the perfect mix of old and new items. My goal was to buy all of my Christmas gifts in local shops, which I accomplished.
- Hermès on Rue de Sèvres. This Hermès is built inside the former pool of the Hotel Lutetia. It’s a light and bright boutique and I find it more laid back than some of the other Hermès stores.
- Compagnie Française des Poivres et des Épices. I love this little boutique. The jars of spices and mixes make great gifts. Some of my favorites are the salad mix, roast chicken mix, and aglio olio peperoncino. I recommend going in and smelling the different mixes to see what you like, but you can also order online and they ship worldwide.

- Caviar Kaspia. We walked by and were victims to trying the free samples. We got a jar of truffle tarama that we served as a part of our appetizer on Christmas Eve. We asked about the caviar tarama, since it is a caviar restaurant after all, but they said that it was too salty. It’s always nice when people give their honest opinions.
- Flair in the City. A word to the wise…don’t get sucked in. I just had to get Boomer a bottle of dog Champagne and can of dog beer (both just apple juice). Both were 30€ and Boomer didn’t like either. Next time I’ll take myself to Bar Hemingway for a drink and Boomer can stick with his tap water.
- Ryst Dupeyron. A go-to spot to pick up a bottle of wine or Champagne to give as a gift (they will wrap anything) as well as Christmas gifts for guys. You can pick a bottle of Armagnac with a year on it (special for a birthday, anniversary, etc.) and they’ll put the person’s name on it.
- Petrossian. After going back and forth on New Year’s Eve plans we decided expensive set menus at restaurants were overrated and instead decided to have a fun and delicious dinner with friends at their apartment. Romain and I brought caviar and introduced our friends to the American way of eating caviar on potato chips with a little bit of crème fraîche.
What I Did in December

- Went to the Loire Valley to see the châteaux decked out for Christmas. I will do a full recap post and link it here when it’s live!
- Led lots of private Paris Christmas Walks. This is one of my favorite December activities because each walk is different and it’s the best way to get into the holiday spirit.
- Mailed Christmas cards. And I learned that 1). it’s not at all French (they send New Year’s cards), 3). French people also don’t send cards with photos on them and 3). when La Poste says it takes 4-6 days for the cards to arrive in the US count closer to three weeks.
- Visited Musée Rodin. I usually only go in the spring and summer months to catch the garden in full bloom. I was very pleasantly surprised to find out that they also put up a stunning Christmas tree.
- Watched the World Cup. It’s the only time I watch soccer/football and (luckily) Romain isn’t very into the sport. But we did have a lot of fun watching.
- Went to a Swan Lake matinée at the Opéra Bastille. The ballet was absolutely lovely. The Opéra Bastille…not so much. There’s just something about Palais Garnier…

- So I had to visit Palais Garnier. The Christmas tree wasn’t red flocked this year, but it was still stunning. It truly is the most magnificent building in Paris.
- Went to Le Grand Numéro de Chanel. I’m still not sure what the point of this whole exhibit was. I suppose to showcase the different perfumes. It was wild and fun to watch and I of course left with Chanel tarot cards…don’t ask me why.
- Undecorated, re-lit and re-decorated my Christmas tree on December 23rd. Boomer ate eight out of ten light strands and I couldn’t deal with having a tree look that sad on Christmas Eve (we hosted). So I took everything off the tree and started over. Thank you, Boomer.
- I’m not going to lie, it felt pretty weird being “old” enough to host Christmas Eve dinner, but we did and we had the best time. Romain and I started the evening going to the family Christmas Eve service in the church where we got married. I love the chaos of a family Christmas Eve service when kids are involved and especially love the songs. It was the perfect start to our night. Our dinner was a mix of French and American Christmas Eve favorites.
A big merci for being a member! If there’s ever anything you’d like to see more of, don’t hesitate to let me know!
A big merci for being a member! If there’s ever anything you’d like to see more of, don’t hesitate to let me know!
